Thursday 3 July 2008

Population explosion on plane

Sweeping down into Adan the first of our Yemeni stages we are presented with 1950s architecture left by the British after the suez crisis began the collapse of the British Empire in this region. It's 7 o'clock local time and it's good with open doors to sniff fresh air rather than the recycled stuff we've gathered on the way.
Lots of evidence of the oil industry mixed in with dramatic landscape of desert sand and black islands of rock. Hard to imagine anyone living here let alone loving here.
Tony and I talk of population growth up from 3 million in 1970 when he first came to 18 million with the engine of health care bringing the changes. They reckon locally it's only the education of women that will reverse the growth but that will take time. Time is the thing none of them have. As Carl Sagan said: "time is the oxygen in which we burn!"
At the moment they are asking if we are sure we are going on to Sana, as they have three extra passengers! Maybe the population is still growing even on the plane.
Sana and we arrive with a physical and cultural bump.
The first thing is how scruffy the outside of things are. This isn't helped by the unfinished buildings. These are the result of a tax dodge... You have to pay tax if you finish a building so no building is ever fully finished. I am beginning to wonder whether this thing of not completing things might also be part of their character... I quite like it and wonder whether every project would benifit from being left a bit unfinished.
The second shock are the children begging by the car and selling things. Generally there were morechildren around but less women.
The third shock is the military road blocks which are to stop guns running to the north. I smile as I am told there's always trouble from the north.
The fourth shock is the hospitality of men. The separation of men and women seems to give men permission to be very close publically to each other. So they hold hands and when they meet one another there is much kissing. They are a bit shy with new people so I haven't been kissed yet! Tony says the closeness of men is what he most misses when he is away from Yemen, I can see why you might.
Its very hot and Yemen's gone to sleep. At four we go to visit the minister for water a good man and an interesting one I am told... Till then I think I will join the Yemenis for a zuzz.

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